RoadTest Review: Molex 2.4Ghz/5Ghz Antenna Kit

It’s been another busy weekend getting a few things done – one of which was this review of Molex 2.4Ghz/5Ghz antennas offered through the element14 RoadTest program. While antennas are probably not the most interesting devices to be testing, they’re critically important in modern wireless-centric designs.

As it was something a bit more specialised that needed specific test equipment to be able to evaluate, there wasn’t that much interest from the community. As a previous recipient of a Tektronix RSA306, I felt it to be my duty to see if I could make head from tails in an “ad-hoc” way using the limited facilities I had.

While I can’t claim to have succeeded, if you want to find out more, read the … full RoadTest review over at element14.

Backup PDF copy: 5GHz Antenna Kit – Review

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Review, Teardown: Alcatroz Airmouse Duo2 Wireless Mouse

Being increasingly reliant on mobile devices to get some level of work done, I had a sudden need for another Bluetooth-capable mouse. While the Logitech M337 continues to serve me well with its rather unusual colour scheme, I was looking for something perhaps a bit more affordable – it just seems rather silly that after all these years, a Bluetooth mouse is still something that is sold for $37 or even more!

While the common solution for this was to just “go to eBay” and order from overseas, the addition of GST on low value items has dampened the appeal somewhat, along with a tide of sellers who claim to have shipped items that never turn up. Add to that the uncertainty of quality and description accuracy – it’s a reason why I’ve really curtailed my eBay spend. This led me to discovering that one of my local retailers stocks a Bluetooth-capable mouse for just $10, the Alcatroz Airmouse Duo2, so I decided to grab one to see whether it was any good.


Alcatroz is not a brand that is commonly heard of in Australia and it seems only one of my local stores carries its products. It’s always on the cheaper end of the market, which is often where a lot of less pleasant items tend to live, but I wasn’t quite going to condemn it before I had given it a go. It seems that this company is part of Leapfrog distribution which is a Singaporean company which is responsible for several other brands (such as Armageddon, SonicGear and Audiobox).

The Airmouse Duo2 comes in a blue box with hang-tab. It is available in black and white colour, and claims to have 2.4Ghz Wireless (with matching “nano” USB receiver) and Bluetooth 4.0 dual-support. It uses 2xAAA batteries which come included (a nice touch) with a claimed 100 hour usage battery life. The unit is capable of 1200dpi, is Made in China and is backed by a 2-year warranty.

Inside the box is a multilingual instruction leaflet, the mouse inside some protective foam bag and a pair of alkaline AAA batteries.

The mouse itself has a rather familiar shape, although is a little flatter than some others I have used. The lower plastic is matte in finish, whereas the top section is gloss.

The mouse is branded with some grey printing on the top. The scroll wheel itself has a wide rubber surface, and like the buttons, is also slightly stiff, refusing to “coast”.

The underside has the relevant model information and QC labels, but also is where the battery compartment and USB receiver are.

The design of the battery compartment is somewhat poor, with the two batteries sitting staggered with no release-aids.

The supplied nano receiver is rather anonymous looking and like most miniature USB devices, has a small PCB hiding within the connector shell.

Once connected, the device appears with a VID of 248A and PID of 8367. This suggests the device might be manufactured by Maxxter, although this is no smoking gun.


Curious to find out what powers the unit, I decided to take it apart almost immediately. To do this, two rubber feet need to be removed revealing two small Philips head screws that need to be removed. Afterwards, the case halves separate.

Et Voila! That’s one wireless mouse. Rather surprisingly, the battery leads are connected by a connector to the main PCB – many manufacturers save a few cents by omitting this as most units would never be repaired if they failed.

Taking a closer look at the PCB, we see the silkscreen marking of FJP-B+2.4G-WK6 FTM10 V1.1 dated 18th October 2017, making this a rather recent product. It seems that the PCB was configured so that you could have a DPI button as well as back/forward buttons, but these were not fitted. The wireless antenna is a PCB trace that is on the left-side of the PCB nearest the index finger when holding the mouse. Two different types of switches seem to be used – Huano (white) for the left and right click button and ZDN (? green) for the scroll-click.

Surprisingly, or rather not, the whole operation of the mouse falls down to one integrated SoC from Telink – the TLSR8261 which seems to be optimised for smart remote control applications. The IC is clocked from a 12Mhz crystal.

The underside is pretty much bare, except for the through-hole solder joints which is rather expected. Still, not bad for $10.

User Opinion

On the whole, a mouse is fairly easy to set up and use with this one being no exception. Putting the batteries in the mouse, it sprang to life practically immediately with the USB receiver being plug and play. However, if you want to use Bluetooth, you need to hold down both mouse buttons until a green LED comes on, and then release.

This activates the Bluetooth mode, allowing it to be found or connected to via Bluetooth Low Energy. This can be seen with the resulting scan from a BLE analyser application.

Because it is a BLE device, it cannot be connected to older Bluetooth Classic (i.e. 3.0 or earlier) devices, requiring Bluetooth 4.0 “Smart” or Low-Energy capabilities at a minimum. This is catered for in most modern devices made in the past few years, otherwise you can revert to using the USB receiver.

The mouse can be toggled between operation in 2.4Ghz mode or Bluetooth Low Energy mode by repeating the “hold-both-mouse-buttons” routine, allowing for controlling two devices from the one mouse. However, the routine can get tiring as it is not as convenient as pressing a single button.

I found the body of the mouse to be a bit short, the plastic to be rather “hard edged” and the stiffness of the switches to make it less comfortable than the Logitech mouse. But it was still a lot better than being without a mouse and acceptable for the price. The 1200dpi resolution is fairly normal, and is sufficient for most office/productivity scenarios on smaller/single screens (e.g. a laptop).

The lack of a power switch was somewhat disappointing. While the mouse does have some aggressive energy saving strategies, it is easily accidentally awoken in transit by a click or scroll which wastes energy and also does not avoid waste from quiescent standby consumption.


For $10, this mouse is a lot cheaper than any other retail Bluetooth-capable mouse option. The build quality feels downright average with a basic 1D scroll-wheel configuration with no additional buttons. The click switches and scroll wheel feel slightly stiff and the DPI is relatively pedestrian, but the unit is functional and quite usable. Ergonomically, it is a little “flat” for my liking, although as a “travel” mouse, this is not a bad compromise. The biggest annoyances for me are the lack of a power switch for conserving battery life and the slightly lengthy mode-change routine of holding down both mouse buttons until an LED lights up.

The biggest downside is that the mouse is (as it says on the box) a Bluetooth Low-Energy device, meaning that it cannot connect to older Bluetooth chipsets that only have Bluetooth Classic capabilities (e.g. 3.0 and earlier). You must have Bluetooth 4.0 with Low Energy capabilities (i.e. Bluetooth Smart) to be able to connect, although most recent smartphones, tablets and laptops will have this. For those that don’t, the dual-mode functionality allows you to use the USB receiver to work with the mouse as well. In fact, you can even use it between two devices, toggling the mouse mode between USB receiver and Bluetooth to swap between computers.

In all, as long as one is aware of the limitation, the mouse is actually fantastic value for money and a big saving compared to the branded alternatives. Sure, the Logitech M337 I have before is a Bluetooth Classic device which ensures wider compatibility and has an extra left/right scroll ability with nicer feeling buttons and shape, but I don’t think it’s quite worth the extra dough. As a result, it seems the Alcatroz Airmouse Duo2 is actually a pretty decent choice for those wanting a wireless mouse on the cheap.

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Project: Words vs Numbers “Art” with an Arduino & HD44780 LCD

I’m definitely no artist – I don’t normally go on “artistic” endeavours, but I try to do practical things as any engineer would. But it’s been a while since I’ve had the time or inclination to build something … and things rarely ever go to plan. After a little building of something else, I somehow ended up building something just for the sake of it. Call it “art”.

The Inspiration Frustration Process

It was an afternoon, I had pulled out an Arduino Leonardo and an LCD Keypad Shield. I wanted to build something Wi-Fi connected, so I grabbed an ESP8266 Wi-Fi Shield as well and thought I’d be on my way. Even if the AT-command set mode wasn’t great, I was only looking to build something simple.

Getting a little ahead of myself, I had no stackable pin headers, so I decided to stuff the Wi-Fi Shield behind the LCD Keypad Shield and just solder it to the slightly-long headers it already had. That went just fine and so I tried snapping it onto the Leonardo – aside from a slight port-clearance issue, it sat “well enough”.

This was when I ran into trouble. The shield acted dead – give it all the AT+RST‘s you want, this thing was not talking no matter what baud. It wasn’t a software vs hardware UART selection switch issue either – the module just didn’t work.

But now I had a problem on my hands – getting the unit out was a nightmare.

Desperate not to “bin” the whole lot and just start fresh, I tried to desolder the shield with very little success – so many plated through-holes wicked solder to inaccessible regions where no wick or bulb could reach. The board was so big it was not practical to hot-air the whole assembly, so I resorted to snipping pins as short as possible and trying to lever the bits apart.

After tearing a few (useless) pads off the board and still resorting to a heat-gun, I managed to separate the two but not without some casualties – the LCD had taken a good dose of heat resulting in some noticeable discolouration, so I don’t know if that was still good or not.

Going into salvage mode, I was still convinced the ESP8266 Wi-Fi Shield would be of use, so I decided to try programming it directly using the ESP8266 Arduino Core and an FTDI cable. I could get a response – I could program the chip to blink an LED, but absolutely anything Wi-Fi related was not working at all. I checked the WiFi Mode was being set correctly, and even tried scripts to disable and re-enable it to no avail. My AP was also telling me that it never even saw a connection attempt.

By now, I was really majorly frustrated, so I decided to try recovering the shield as it had nice level shifters and voltage regulators on it – I loaded a Wi-Fi scan program onto it and it said no network. Suspecting something happened to the antenna connection, I checked for continuity – there was no issue. I suspected a crack in the ceramic capacitor connected to the antenna – desoldered it and shorted it out to no avail.

Now I suspected a bad ESP8266 – so I got the hot air gun out and desoldered the IC and reworked another ESP8266 from another board on. With the fine pitch and complex pad pattern, it was a big stretch but worth a try. Still no dice.

Now suspecting either an EEPROM data problem or a crystal oscillator out of tolerance, I moved both from the other “donor” module to the shield. I thought this would be a sure win – but no. Only blinks, no Wi-Fi.

By now, I was fed up. It was only a few dollars … I was prepared to let it go. Weekend project postponed until later … when the parts arrive.

But What About the LCD?

I still had a really beaten up LCD shield module that had been through many ordeals and seemed to be bin material. But then, I thought I might as well give it a go – by desoldering as much of the broken pins out and replacing just the pins necessary, I decided to give it a shot.

In order to do this, I had to write a program to write some data to the screen. I could have stuck with “Hello World”, but where’s the fun in that? It wouldn’t test the character generator much …

So I decided to embark on a project to fill the LCD with random characters as quickly as possible and continually do this.

The LCD was still alive, but with a slight bright spot on the top row. That’s quite amazing. But then, I thought it would be nice to make something less “random and confusing” – why not make something aesthetically eye-catching.

The New “Art” Project

Keeping myself occupied for the afternoon, I decided that I would take the random-character-sketch and instead do something a little less random and a little more artistic. That’s when I came up with the idea of illustrating “Words vs Numbers” on an LCD. As I had an old Arduino Mega 2560 that had a bunch of blown I/O pins due to an accident with some scrap wire and an even larger 20×4 LCD that was doing absolutely nothing for the past six years, I decided it would be nice to just cobble it together for some fun.

The new project would:

  • Put numbers in random positions on the display on a regular basis, rather than doing random characters sequentially as my LCD test did. This would create a sparkling that would look like “noise” on a background of numbers that might be somewhat reminiscent of The Matrix.
  • Write random words to random positions on the display on a regular basis. This would be taken from a list of common English words – fitting as many in as possible to increase variety.
  • Be fleeting but still readable – illustrating a battle between the two by having the random numbers “erode” the words over time, whereas words would spring up suddenly at intervals. This is sort of entropic in a way, showing the words “decaying” into the field of numbers.
  • Be powered via USB, which is no trouble for Arduinos.

All in all, nothing hard, but at least something I could get my hands on.

The Result

With some white coloured hook-up wire (as that was what I had left), a half-damaged Arduino Mega 2560 clone board, a 10kohm precision trimpot, an old LCD display and a lot of hot glue … we have this monstrosity.

What does it do? Simply, this …

An abridged version of the code is as follows:

#include <LiquidCrystal.h>

#define INT_CHAR_DEL 45
#define CHARSET_HIGH 57
#define CHARSET_LOW 48
#define ROWS 2
#define COLS 16
#define INJECTINT 24

LiquidCrystal lcd(8,9,4,5,6,7);
const char string_0[] PROGMEM = "a";
const char string_1[] PROGMEM = "abandon";
const char* const string_table[] PROGMEM = {string_0, string_1};
char buf[17];
int cyclecount=0;

void setup() {
  lcd.begin(COLS, ROWS);

void loop() {
  if (cyclecount>INJECTINT) {
    strcpy_P(buf, (char*)pgm_read_word(&(string_table[random(0,2350)])));
    for(cyclecount=0;cyclecount<strlen(buf);cyclecount++) {

This code was kept as simple as possible and was something I ended up writing within half an hour. The idea is to use LiquidCrystal library for parallel LCD interfacing, using random() to generate the necessary random values seeded by an analogRead() value from an unconnected pin. The loop sets the cursor to a random position within the LCD and writes a random character within the range (defined as numbers) to that position. It delays a fixed amount of time, and counts every loop. After a fixed number of loops, we turn on the “blink” feature so the block cursor shows (to make the word printing more obvious) and pull a random string from the string table in PROGMEM. This is written to a random position on the screen character by character (ensuring it fits into the screen), followed by a five-times-length delay to give the eye some time to identify and read the word before it is “destroyed” by further random writes. The blink feature is turned off when returning back into the random number writing loop.

Due to the difference in memory, the number of words that can be accommodated depends on the microcontroller in question and how it accesses memory. In the case of 32kB microcontrollers (e.g. 32U4, 328P), the amount of space is somewhere around 28kB-30kB depending on which particular microcontroller is used. The Leonardo, for example, has less because some of this space is necessary for the bootloader’s USB emulation. As a result, I made a “smaller” version with 2350 words from EF Australia that just fits into those.

For larger microcontrollers, such as the ATMEGA1280/256o used in the Mega boards, they have 128/256kB of memory minus some for the bootloader. Unfortunately, there is a problem with using all of this memory as pointers are 16-bit in the Arduino code, resulting in a hard 64kB limit in pointers. Exceeding this results in code that doesn’t execute properly through to assembler errors. The solution for this is to apparently use far-pointers, which don’t seem nicely supported, so I’ve capped the number of words to 6500 words instead from Google’s corpus to fit within this space limit.

The full code for both an Arduino Leonardo (or other 32kB microcontrollers) and Arduino Mega 1280/2560 (or 64kB+ microcontrollers) can be downloaded:

Porting to other microcontrollers might allow for even more words to be accommodated due to the difference in capacity and way memory accesses are handled.


It’s not something really amazing or perhaps even unique, but more a result of a lot of frustration. Borne out of some code I wrote to just test an LCD which I had tortured, I decided to extend it with the help of a few online corpuses to print random words over a sea of random numbers. But now that I’ve built it, I do like it – it seems rather visually interesting at times to just pick a word out from the “sea” of numbers before it disappears.

Posted in Electronics | Tagged , , , | 1 Comment